It's hard to get your head around the story of a place like Ballykilcavan Farm in deepest Laois, where the Walsh family has worked the land since 1639. But that has meant constant reinvention and, understanding the need to diversify for long-term viability, 13th generation farmer David Walsh-Kemmis came up with a plan - and the happy result is their unique Ballykilcavan Brewery, which now delights visitors from far and wide and is an inspiring example of innovation and sustainable development. They are members of Bord Bia's Origin Green sustainability programme and, exceptionally, hold the highest possible Gold membership rating. The beautiful stone outbuildings provide an atmospheric setting for the new brewery and visitor experience, and the provenance of the ingredients used in their beers is remarkable by any standards: aside from the barley grown on the farm (which also supplies other businesses including Waterford Distillery) they use their own well water, and have 'a small but expanding' hop garden. To thrive over more than four centuries innovation must be in their DNA and it seems that the drive to meet changing times with diversification has never been stronger than it is in the current generation. David is a warm and enthusiastic host too, and both the tours and the products are well worth seeking out.